In my opinion, the MiterSet tool is the easiest to use, most accurate way to set up miter angles for cutting segments on the table saw. No more hours spent in calibration. No more fixing "gaposis". Click here to visit miterset.com and learn all about it. Now Rockler has a competing product and I'm using it as well. It'll be interesting to compare them,
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Designing a Segmented ProjectDesigning a Project

Translating the Design into Cutting InstructionsTranslating the Design into Cutting Instructions

Cutting SegmentsCutting Segments

Gluing and Clamping RingsGluing and Clamping Rings

Flattening Segmented RingsFlattening Rings

Gluing up the Segmented ProjectGluing up the Project

When you glue together all the segments of a ring you'll quickly learn an awful secret. No matter what you did to true up your saw, the glued up ring will not come out perfectly flat. That means you will have to find a way to get at least one side trued up so you can glue it to the next ring. Here are some of the ways you might try.

Flattening Method Good Points Bad Points Rough Cost
Sandpaper wrapped around a flat piece of wood Cheap; easy to implement Hard work; slow $1
Oscillating sander Better than by hand Not a very flat result $50
Cole Jaw Chuck You'll eventually own one anyway; easy setup face cutting sometimes troublesome $85
Belt Sander More power is better Hard to be precise $50-$100
Disk Sander Fairly fast; good results Requires a large unit; watch your fingers $200
Surface Planer Gets the job done fast Back side tends to chip out; smaller rings require a hold-down mechanism $300
Table Saw Works fast Dangerous $500
Drum/Thickness Sander Very flat result; fairly fast; works with small or large rings; very small rings (<2.5") require a hold-down mechanism Potentially expensive $100-$800 and up

Both the Surface Planer and the Drum/Thickness Sander require assistance to hold down small rings. Otherwise they'll just pick up the rear edge and make a mess. Just weakly attach two boards on opposing sides of the ring; use something like hot glue or double-sided tape. Start with boards that are about the same thickness as the ring and are a foot or so long. Process both sides and then remove the "sacrificed" boards. This would also be a way to safely use the Wagner Power Planer in a drill press.

The Drum/Thickness Sander deserves some extra explanation because of the quality of the result. While commercial units start out in the $800 range, you can build one yourself for about $100 if you have a spare motor lying around. The people at Moritz Designs have a plan for sale, at just $9.50, that is easy to follow. You'll find it at http://http://www.moritzdesigns.com/thicknesssander.

I have just one tip for improving on their design of the table that your work rests on. That is to put 3/4" plywood on both the top and bottom sides of the table to maximize its stiffness. The extra stiffness will ensure that the clearance under the drum is constant for its entire length.



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Page Last Updated: 10/27/2024

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